Friday, April 26, 2013

The Cheat Sheet

tailored suit

• A suit's gotta fit right or it isn't worth wearing.
• In order to make sure that it does fit right, find yourself a good tailor.
• You'll never go wrong wearing at two-button suit with a fairly narrow lapel. It's both classic and completely modern.
• Flat-front, relatively trim pants; very little break at the ankle.
• You should be able to easily cup your hands beneath the hem of the jacket; if you can't, it's too long.
• Show some cuff. It's the mark of a (well-dressed) gentleman.
• Dress with the season—cotton suits in summer; tweeds, flannels, and corduroys in winter.
• If you're going to wear a patterned suit, keep the patterns subtle. You want a smart suit, not a kooky one.
• If you ever can afford to get a bespoke suit, get one made. It's worth every penny.

Thursday, April 25, 2013

How A Suit Should Fit

custom suits
You know how a man suit should fit. But what about all the details that define the style of a suit? You've got countless options. Here are the ones that matter most, the ones that make for an infallible suit.
F. Start with the Lapels
Nothing does more to dictate a suit's character than the lapel. We like a slim one, about two inches at its widest point. It's modern without being rock-star skinny.
G. Go for Two
We swear by a two-button suit jacket. Sure, a three-button that's cut well can do the job, but a two-button is much more consistently reliable, no matter your shape or size. We typically opt for ones with low-button stances, because they create a long, slimming torso. They're foolproof.
H. Ticket, Please
Ticket pocket? Sure. If you're into more of a British-dandy vibe, go for it.
I. Cause a Flap
We like a traditional flap pocket. There's something a bit too '90s about those slit pockets.

 

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Shopping for Groomsmen


wedding suit

Having to choose my own wedding outfit (suit or tuxedo?) is a difficult task by itself.  But throw in a few more variables such as coordinating outfits for 6 groomsmen with 6 bridesmaids’ outfits and 1 wedding dress that can’t be viewed until the day of the wedding, and I’ve got a real challenge on my hands.
Considering I will be getting married in four months I decided it was probably time to start deciding what the groomsmen outfits would look like.  I knew before I got started though that I’d need to be able to answer a few questions about the outfits: What kind of outfit am I looking for?  What color do I want the guys to wear? And how do I picture it all coming together?
The first answer was easy, because I know I don’t want us wearing tuxedos.  The wedding ceremony will be in a church but the reception will be outdoors in a venue that has a rustic look.  A tux would be too formal and would seem out of place at the reception venue.  Secondly, I decided the guys should wear a lighter grey suit, also because I feel this would better compliment the outdoor reception venue.  I personally view black suits as an option for somber occasions and business meetings; grey would be a slightly more casual look.  In my head, I pictured the suits fitting well and their details color-coordinating with the bridesmaids dresses.  And since none of the groomsmen are over 27, I am afraid anything too loose would make us look like little kids.
Having outlined what I wanted, Matthew (who happens to be my best man, brother, and fellow Sharp Suit blogger) and I went over to Men’s Wearhouse and Jos. A. Bank .  Although we haven’t had personal success shopping at these stores, I wanted to get an idea of what wedding options they offer and determine how much work I really had to do.

Monday, April 22, 2013

An Homage to Formal Wear

We can thank the original dandy, Mr. Beau Brummell, for introducing the modern Western man to the importance of well-fitted and understated formal wear. Mr. Brummell’s contemporaries, the English aristocrats of the early 19th century, seemed to be fitted towards mobility, and thus their attire needed to be more practical. A trailblazing pioneer, Mr. Brummell experimented with his own style and started deviating from the norm in a big way.  Dropping the pomp and frills of his peers, he valued fit above all else, considering how it would frame his body and how it would better represent the image that he wanted to project.  His fashion and style ushered in a revolution in menswear that is still present today. It shook its way through British royalty and decades of tradition and now a sharply tailored and well-fitted suit stands as one of the most distinguished staple garments in formal menswear.
It would be silly to suggest that all this was ushered in by one man; surely it took the courage of many a Beau Brummell, an entire movement like many acts of revolution. Regardless of the history, we are sure about one thing. We’re grateful it happened. And we’re grateful there are men who continue to push style forward.
On this, the eve of Oscar weekend and the decrescendo of awards season (the season of bravura) we tip our hats to the men who dared to deviate from the norm to give us the modern tuxedo.
men suitsmen suitsmen suitsmen suitsmen suits 
custom suits

Friday, April 19, 2013

Three Things to Remember

custom suits

Style moves in the same rhythms as your life. With spring imminently approaching, don’t be afraid to embrace the change in season and take meaningful steps towards self-improvement. It’s the perfect time to be excited! More daylight and warm weather can make many-a-thing possible. Here are a few tips to get you on your way.  
CHANGE IT UP.
Embrace the changes within and around you as an opportunity to take steps outside your comfort zone.  Whether it is a change in season that moves you to splash more colors into your outfit, a change in jobs that allows you to dress your normal attire up or down, or even a change in the people who inspire you to embrace different looks, taking advantage of the natural shifts in your daily schedule can help you manifest the change you want to see in yourself. Using your wardrobe as the medium through which you formulate your image it’s important, at times, to alter the medium itself; for example, replacing those old beat up, loose fitting jeans you’ve had since college with some slimmer, well-fitting denim.  Sometimes, you need to alter the way you utilize the medium; for example, that faded vintage t-shirt might actually go well with a blazer for a change. When you lend room to positive change, even if they are small changes, it is amazing the things that will move your way. 
custom suits
CLASSIC IS KING.
Trends don’t mean much and you’re old enough to know better.  No matter what  happens in the world of high fashion or fast fashion, it’s not about having multitudes of clothes in your closet but rather about investing in timeless staples such as a solid navy suit, a sharp gray blazer, well-fitting denim, chinos and a pair of well-made oxfords. Building your wardrobe from these classic items will help you maintain a sartorial authenticity that transcends fair-weather trends. These pieces form the foundation upon which your aesthetic rests. From here, there is no style you can’t create. 
custom suits

GET CRAFTED.
Buy garments that are well constructed and that last. Rather than going for the most expensive items on the rack (or for that matter, the least expensive) it is important to understand what you are actually paying for. More often than not the price is based purely on the label rather than the craftsmanship. Finding the best options for your money can often be as simple as doing a quick Google search on how it’s constructed and what it’s made from. Is your coat 100% wool or is it a poly blend? Is your jacket lining made with bemberg or polyester?   Are your dress shoes made of real calfskin leather or synthetic materials?  Taking the time to understand the products you buy can save you money in the long run and significantly improve the look, functionality and longevity of your wardrobe. Buying clothes should be seen as a investment not only in the clothes themselves, but as an investment in yourself, your image and your overall happiness and well-being.

Three Things to Remember

custom suits

Style moves in the same rhythms as your life. With spring imminently approaching, don’t be afraid to embrace the change in season and take meaningful steps towards self-improvement. It’s the perfect time to be excited! More daylight and warm weather can make many-a-thing possible. Here are a few tips to get you on your way.  
CHANGE IT UP.
Embrace the changes within and around you as an opportunity to take steps outside your comfort zone.  Whether it is a change in season that moves you to splash more colors into your outfit, a change in jobs that allows you to dress your normal attire up or down, or even a change in the people who inspire you to embrace different looks, taking advantage of the natural shifts in your daily schedule can help you manifest the change you want to see in yourself. Using your wardrobe as the medium through which you formulate your image it’s important, at times, to alter the medium itself; for example, replacing those old beat up, loose fitting jeans you’ve had since college with some slimmer, well-fitting denim.  Sometimes, you need to alter the way you utilize the medium; for example, that faded vintage t-shirt might actually go well with a blazer for a change. When you lend room to positive change, even if they are small changes, it is amazing the things that will move your way. 
custom suits
CLASSIC IS KING.
Trends don’t mean much and you’re old enough to know better.  No matter what  happens in the world of high fashion or fast fashion, it’s not about having multitudes of clothes in your closet but rather about investing in timeless staples such as a solid navy suit, a sharp gray blazer, well-fitting denim, chinos and a pair of well-made oxfords. Building your wardrobe from these classic items will help you maintain a sartorial authenticity that transcends fair-weather trends. These pieces form the foundation upon which your aesthetic rests. From here, there is no style you can’t create. 
custom suits

GET CRAFTED.
Buy garments that are well constructed and that last. Rather than going for the most expensive items on the rack (or for that matter, the least expensive) it is important to understand what you are actually paying for. More often than not the price is based purely on the label rather than the craftsmanship. Finding the best options for your money can often be as simple as doing a quick Google search on how it’s constructed and what it’s made from. Is your coat 100% wool or is it a poly blend? Is your jacket lining made with bemberg or polyester?   Are your dress shoes made of real calfskin leather or synthetic materials?  Taking the time to understand the products you buy can save you money in the long run and significantly improve the look, functionality and longevity of your wardrobe. Buying clothes should be seen as a investment not only in the clothes themselves, but as an investment in yourself, your image and your overall happiness and well-being.

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

How to Dress like Harvey and Mike

If USA’s hit TV show, “Suits,” doesn’t make you want to pick up an LSAT study guide and take a shot at law school, it sure as hell makes you want to suit up.
Suiting Up for Success
“People respond to how we’re dressed, so like it or not this is what you have to do.” Harvey Specter
The show preaches and epitomizes the idea of “dressing for success” as all the male characters are never without an impeccably tailored suit on. Harvey Specter and Mike Ross shine the brightest – one a superstar partner and the other his freshly minted associate at fictitious law firm Pearson and Hardman. The idea of dressing for success is not a new one. It is built on the premise that what you wear contributes largely to your success in the professional world. As you probably guessed, we are huge advocates of this idea, as expressed in our “What to Wear to an Interview” post. Here we’ll revisit it anew in the context of the TV series, “Suits.”

When Mike Ross frustratingly asks “Why does it matter how much I spend on a suit,” Harvey quickly retorts with “People respond to how we’re dressed, so like it or not this is what you have to do.” His point being that people are making prejudiced assessments based on how we’re dressed, whether we’re cognizant or not, or whether we give a damn or not. Every moment a judgment is being made, sometimes even subconscious to the one making the judgment—is he sloppy like his suit? Why is he wearing that hideous tie? Looks like this is the first time he’s ever put on a suit…
A Sensitivity for the Details of Your Look 
Many men know that thick pinstripe suits often communicate that “boss” or “boardroom” look, but what about other aspects of the suits, such as peak lapels? What are you communicating when you opt for a peak lapel verses a slim notch? What do the differences mean to you, if anything?
To many, it may not mean a thing. But to those who are discerning of the details – an interviewer, a potential business partner or even that attractive blonde across the room –  it may mean a lot. Just like how you wouldn’t wear a floral print shirt to a funeral, you wouldn’t want to head into a boardroom looking like this.
You never get a second chance to make a first impression. – Will Rogers
Your Suit as the Language of Success
Dressing for success is a bit like writing, if you’re writing to communicate a message to your readers, you have to be mindful of the language, syntax, grammar and the choice of your words.  Think of every element of your outfit as a word in a sentence—from the fabric of your suit to the style of your pockets. Make sure you know the meaning of each word, and choose your words carefully.
Ask yourself this: What does your suit say about you? What do the details say?
The wardrobe stylists behind the characters Harvey Specter and Mike Ross in the show “Suits” obviously understand this “language.” While both characters look incredible in their well-fitting suits, the details of their looks conveys two very different messages.

In the show, Mike Ross frequently wears a slimmer, more understated and conservatively (but still smartly) tailored suit (slim notch lapel, no vest, slim tie with a small four-in-hand knot), representing the young associate, a bit wet behind the ears, but quickly rising under the promising tutelage of the firm’s top star, Harvey Specter. Harvey, on the other hand, truly dresses like a boss. He’s the top closer of his firm, and his power suits convey his status at his firm perfectly. Everything in Harvey’s look evokes strength from the 3-piece suit to the spread collar and windsor knot. This stark contrast shows how effectively an outfit can communicate a message of power.
Now we don’t blame you if you want to look like Harvey Specter. Like we said, the guy straight up looks boss. He’s there to make moves and it’s evident by his clothes alone that things have been working out rather nicely for him. Replicating a look like this requires a sensitivity to your context and the message you’re trying to get across.