Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Empire of mismatched

We are there for the third year Stiff Collar. The opportunity today to reflect on the fashion of the moment, or rather directions cheap custom suits habits of men, but for three years the crisis raged. A crisis in the textile industry pretty hard, especially the middle class, precisely that we manufacture in Europe and France, when the high-end and low-end (one to the another and another to a curious right?) are doing well.

Anyway, I recently walked Marbeuf Paris street known for its line of shops and tailors - which Cifonelli - Men. The conclusion is simple: the Italian look is everywhere. If I thought it was admirable in the beginning, it is clear that this is boring in the long run, especially when the French houses (Arthur & Fox, Hartwood, Smalto etc ...) are getting into, is in no way seek more innovative really helped, it must be said by Loro Piana, which looks official supplier of all these signs.

The Italians developed the new concept of 'sport chic' false-new approach to the clothing that comes directly from the English mismatched code: jacket + pants only. The premium comfort and simplicity. Why not at the bottom. It must be admitted that the suit 'still', already invented for its simplicity is on the decline, as the tie. People are looking for comfort, to focus on their work and / or soften a rather exhausting day, especially in cities. Comfort is enhanced by more technical products, with zips, laser inserts, plasticizers, waterproofing etc ...

But that means spoiling? This is indeed a more difficult task than to don a costume, especially if one takes the trouble to think about its implementation. Because obviously, it is possible to put on a t-shirt with jeans. But then, no art, no finesse or research. Yet this is what has long characterized human civilizations. In contrast, think of a single jacket is a job, a real job, maybe even harder than the plain gray or blue together. What color to the jacket, which cut what grounds, select what details? This is not easy. Most of the time, the tie is no longer used with mismatched sets, it removes a thorn from the side.

Basically, I'm pretty happy with this new (not so new, we'll see) approach. It makes it easier than ever to find a balance between relatively inexpensive pants (although some are very expensive jeans) and nice jackets. I am also pleased to make the occasion. And it requires a job selection even further tissue.

It may be noted that historically, the same suit jacket + pants, or 'still' is an anomaly. Anomaly appeared around 1920 to extend these days, with a peak around the second world war and 60's. Never before had there been such a unit. It just was not the rule. The tight trousers sported a color, sometimes a pattern, frock coat or another. And if you push up the old regime, the men wore as many colors as the women (at least in the court), they were peacocks.

Today's odd, (nice) jacket over jeans (as is the norm) could it not be similar to the jacket combination of striped pants? This is the same idea, only the notion of changing elegance.

The development of the costume is the culmination of a long process bourgeois, which goes hand in hand with the development of the black garment. Black, non-color par excellence is also an anomaly. Finally anomaly half because it was the color of church services and people (bankers, lawyers, scholars etc ...). Color which was adopted at the turn of the 19th century by the new bourgeoisie industrious, as the fraction of the tail and cod. Finally, the suit 'still' is a shorter version, so my dear, the jacket, ideal for new classes ... And it is working environments where the odd is not so accepted ( typically the bank). Some also do not dare to take the plunge, they are more French Italians ;) This is where things get complicated. To still show a bit of fantasy, so some men buy vaguely dark suits they put with brown shoes. It is not uncommon to find in the fronts of jackets with colorful buttonholes or shoes with colorful laces. The white shirt is no longer pink or blue, it incorporates only parts of black or fuchsia collar, buttons on the side of the neck etc. ... So many men do not dare get rid of the petty bourgeois costume. But they bully. The color sock also democratic. It was then that individual taste becomes paradoxically collective bad taste. And it's a pretty French taste, a French style and almost sadly.

Many people no longer accept the codes. Anecdote paradoxical: the most striking that I have in mind is the uniform officers to the train example. It is awful, awful cut in an ugly gray fabric. Awful. Yet there is a uniform, but we wanted to make a costume. The old military forts and black or blue models were yet beautiful and very practical. They were sacrificed at the cost of desecration of the function and / or modernization, it depends. As for train drivers, they can be t-shirt ... The company consciously seeks to domesticate borders and odious markers. But this is obviously an illusion, never disparities and inequalities have been greater.

People like change. People need to be rich. Conversely, the stability is often the mother of virtue in the financial and economic fields. Can the current crisis be useful at this level.

Anyway, let's finish this monologue here. Suppose sports jackets are the future regarding the beautiful pieces. Damage to the pants which incidentally are the most difficult parts cut out. It remains to be well, not too short as it is the fashion, not too dark as it is the fashion, not too fanciful as it is fashionable but tasteful and colorful! We will rejoice, of course, to our delight, our greatest asset! And if you must be in costume, so we want-in the classics!

The garment is and will remain a social vector, bespoke suits meaning an element of our relationship with the company. Alteration, any fading of the code, under the guise of egalitarianism, perhaps only detrimental to the overall cohesion of our societies, it is my opinion ... What do you think?

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