In the last few weeks, I have been happily spotting a few gentlemen in Paris whose accoutrement was particularly well assembled.
I must admit that spotting bespoke suits in the wild has become a
habit, borderlining obsession. Nevertheless, even in the best weeks, I
rarely see more than 4 or 5 men in bespoke… and I can assure you that I
probably don’t miss that many. Indeed, telling a pagoda shoulder from a
spalla con rollino, or recognizing worked button holes and perfectly
adjusted double breasted jackets has become second nature to yours
Last week, in one single day (!), I ran into two gents wearing very
beautiful bespoke suits. Although I immediately recognized them as
Neapolitan (the shoulders were easily identifiable to anyone with the
slightest awareness on the subject), I was unable to tell, to my
greatest dismay, the workshop where they had been made. The men wearing
the suits (who had spotted the shoulder construction of my Cifonelli’s
DB jacket in a nice 130′s Holland And Sherry glen plaid), revealed that
their magnificent suits had been made by labels which PG is following
from a distance, namely Antonio Panico and Gennaro Solito.
tailors make high tradition suits. While Panico clearly favours a
decidedly natural shoulder construction (sloping shoulder), Solito’s are
predominantly con rollino (slightly more structured Neapolitan shoulder
with puckering). Personally, I am much keener on Panico’s work,
although it’s only a question of taste, as Solito’s work is of equally
Here are a few images of both. Antonio Panico (who insiders know was
the star cutter for Rubinacci in the 90s, before opening his own
workshop), despite his old age, remains a paragon of elegance and style,
as shown on the following photo (from last june’s Men’s ex).
You will also enjoy a preview of Solito’s production, an excellent
workshop, including a typical example of the spalla con rollino (second
images), so treasured by the label.
In the next few months, we will pay very close attention to the beautiful work of both.
Naples will always be Naples…