Heavier Fabrics Add Volume

Tall & Thin Men

Heavier Fabrics Add Volume
Heavier fabrics add volume to a thin frame, whereas lightweight fabrics have a drape that accentuates a thinner frame. It's a good idea to go for heavier wools that hold their form. This body type is not limited to just heavy wools; light colored cotton or linen would also work.

Camelhair Overcoat

Should you tire of wearing the same dark overcoat day after day, there are other options. Camelhair has long been a favorite of the New England aristocracy, thanks to its incomparable troika of warmth, durability, and softness. Given its pedigree, the natural beige color of pure camelhair is exempt from the traditional rules of color matching for formality's sake, although all materials are equal before the judgment seat of aestheticism. Checks are traditional for fall and spring weight coats, and can be found on heavier ones as well; for the gentleman who enjoys mixing and matching patterns they offer an opportunity to add another ingredient to the stew. Subtle horizontal stripe patterns are as versatile as solids, and give one a dandified touch.

The Black Tie of "Black Tie"

The black bow tie defines an entire style, and as such deserves a bit of respect. Pre-tied and clip-on models are simply out. A fixed-length tie of a length appropriate to your neck is always preferable to adjustable models as well; the latter will have excess fabric that doubles over and adds an unsightly bulge to the knot when tied. To keep the tie proportional to your face, try to make sure that the ends of the bow fall somewhere between the edge of your face and the outer corners of your eyes -- anything smaller will make your head look oversized. The material of the tie should match the jacket's lapel facings visually; shiny ties with soft-fronted lapels will create a glaring breach of the outfit's uniformity.