Man fashion trends spring summer 2013

Different fashion week custom suits were completed in late June Throughout the various parades in the program, the biggest names in Italian fashion (Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci ...)

The knitwear:If it is essential in the winter collections, the mesh is also the collections of spring-summer 2013. In Paris, the designers have worked fine and the volume of wool for the effects of ever more subtle and ethereal textures. Knitting lightweight, soft, light and flexible, becomes the essential part of summer evenings.
The camel color:Brown, gold, ocher and yellow. The fall colors are summer but acclimatize to the season by their evocative power: a safari in Africa, stretches of sand in the Sahara desert, a Riyadh in Morocco. Color-like sunset colors to match with "nude" and discrete as white, beige or ivory.
A critical business accessory, the scarf:In Paris, dandyism his disciples. The timeless elegance of the Anglo-Saxon aristocracy dresses necks with mufflers silk and satin a sassy but so refined simplicity. Attached by a single node, or cross scapegoat, the scarf became the emblem of the aphorism of Oscar Wilde: "A well tied tie is the first serious step in life."
Rangers shoes:The military boot is essential equipment for spring-summer 2013 custom made suits. It is rising, lace or zip armed with a lugged outsole. Very popular with Gothic since the mid-90s (especially with New Rock), the soldier's boots worn with skinny jeans or shorts and are strictly banned camouflage with a total look.
Combining:In Paris, safety clothing has definitely earned his stripes fashion. Belted, tucked sleeves and ankles, she is to accessorize with a dark trench coat and a fitted jacket and impeccable moccasins to avoid the pitfall of dungarees.

The preppy can also be dressed as menswear summer 2013 cheap custom suits announces the return of bad boy.Allure former inmate at Bernhard Willhelm, punk in Rynshu or obscure shaman in John Galliano: the male is back and he puts on its dark outfits even in the hottest temperatures.A masculine style rather successful, which sometimes takes a retro 1980s when the resonance bad boy inspired by the Blues Brothers held at Kris Van Assche or set the pace miliary streetwear version of MC Hammer at Jean Paul Gaultier.

The best tip for anyone who is quietly

The Last Parades Paris, We See?

 

     Hermès
     Lanvin
     Damir Doma
     Kenzo
     Miharayasuhiro
     Alex Mabile
     A.P.C
     SACAI
     Dior Homme
     Berluti
     John Galliano
     Paul Smith

And the French season continued pleasing myself liters. Loved most collections. Still missing a few parades but to finish post later or tomorrow. And if I can, I do resumão trends this week even. ;-)

The Quickie: Suits with patterns

What you need to know when buying a men’s belt

Men’s Belt Basics:  Buying a Belt
Very similar-looking belts sometimes vary widely in cost.  The quality of the leather is one common factor:  calfskin is the most common material used for belts, and a good belt will have a soft, supple leather.  Flex the belt to make sure it hasn’t turned brittle or started to crack.  Another good test of leather is to score the back very lightly with your fingernail — if a faint line appears, the leather is still soft and fresh.  Old, hard leather will resist your nail.
Construction is the other major factor affecting the price of a belt.  Look for small, tight stitching with no loose ends wherever the leather has been sewn.  Buckles attached with a snap on the back of the belt can be changed out, while a buckle stitched in place is the only one you can wear with the belt — some men may find the flexibility of a snapped belt worth paying more for, especially in good leather.  Belts can be custom-cut at some leather goods stores.
Brand name will also play a factor, but means quite a bit less than the other factors.  Your belt is too small for most people to be able to tell at a glance whether it’s designer or not.  Spend the money on quality instead.

Men’s Belt Basics:  Belts and Jean Labels
Speaking of designer goods, some high-end jeans have a famous label right between two of the belt loops.  You may be tempted to leave the belt off, so that the label can be displayed more prominently.
It’s not a great idea in general.  Unbelted jeans, even expensive ones, make you look like a slob.  Choose a slim belt that lets part of the label show and leave it to other people to notice your fantastic style — or not.  If they weren’t in the know you weren’t going to impress them anyway, right?
Related post:
http://www.matthewaperry.com/
http://ctdtailor.blogspot.com/2013/05/natural-linen-custom-made -jacketleisure.html
 http://matthewaperry.blogspot.com/2013/05/how-to-manage- striped-custom-tailored.html
 http://bespokesuits123.blogspot.com/2013/05/touch-on-sharp-suit.html

THE MALE ELEGANCE CLIMATE

John Hamm dressed for the role of a doctor in 1917 set during the Russian Revolution and based on the stories of Mikhail Bulgakov. Could this look now be considered “irresistible“?
The male elegance climate appears to be simmering to a boil lately (compared to a mere five years ago). While we are seeing a boom in men dressing well with a growing penchant for style and quality, at the same time we notice a collapse in the frequency of spotting the quintessential middle management man with scuffed-up shoes and a dilapidated leather belt with belt-hole notches shaped like inverted amebas (of which he seems oddly proud to announce that his belt notches chronicle his weight loss and gain history since 1990… hence you deduce that his belt must be around 13 years old).
These days, it is more likely for a man to feel good about having immaculately polished shoes and to find satisfaction in knowing that a belt is rarely needed with a suit in the first place, since the complete body line of a man looks much better when he opts for trousers designed for no belt, thus avoiding the “cutting of the man in half” visual effect that a belt causes.

This man understands that wearing a belt with a suit can be passé and cut the flow of the total line of a man.
Yet even if men are speeding towards sartorial excellence at an alarming rate, we continue to see the occasional breed of the sartorial counter culture set fanning the embers of the spirit of the 1980s “casual Friday movement”, perhaps most by those who feel trapped as time-watchers living for 5 o’clock and for the promise of anoher weekend—leaving us with the impression of a lost ability to feel intrigue for any day except Friday, Saturday and Sunday…with even churches replacing dress standards with the come as you are mindset.
France (even with its obvious population of sartorial-gifted men and women) gives us a more direct example of a diminishing regard for the work week by introducing “Half-Day Fridays “, or more specifically a reduction of the hours in the workweek from 39 to 35 hours, since the year 2000. At this rate, in the year 2052, we can project an introduction of the two hour workday–with potential daily perks such as Tie-Less Thursdays, Facebook Wednesdays, No Need to Tuck Your Shirt In Tuesdays, and Don’t Bother to Show Up Mondays.
This passive attitude towards how we present ourselves creates a piggy-back effect that biases these same time-watchers towards the belief that the reason dressing casually is better is because it is easier. And, once it is perceived that the daily goal is to make things easier, then the possibility of sartorial glory is lost. And, if a sartorial atheist believes that Monday through Thursday constitute corporate enslavement, forced dress-codes, and a general sense of misery, then we accept that we are unlikely to see a glowing sartorial result within this cultural realm.
However, the incredible point that may be easy to overlook, is that the sartorially-inclined man can use Casual Friday to his advantage as an optimal opportunity to come to work in business-only attire, which causes him be noticed in a way that helps communicate his own unique persona while at the same time, nurturing career advancement potential and boosting the chance for success in his social endeavors.

Not foregoing the necktie on Casual Friday sets this man apart from the others.

“Dress for the job above yours…and rethink casual Friday. Business Insider, 2011″

Although many may consider disregarding Casual Fridays to be somewhat hardcore, in actuality, dressing well is a moderate gesture that pays great dividends.

 Related article:
http://bespokesuits123.blogspot.com/2013/05/a-shirt-has-three- standard-designs.html

http://mansuits123.blogspot.com/2013/05/bespoke-suit-by-yoshimi- hasegawa.html

Is Your Favorite Suit Being Destroyed Right Now In Your Closet

Think about it.
Your jackets spend more time in your closet than they do on your shoulders.
And what are they resting on – for days if not months & years?
Thin, cheap, wire hangers that are NOTHING like your shoulders?
The fact is wire hangers cause puckered shoulders, re-shape hand-padded expensive jacket shoulder negatively, and ultimately ruin your clothes right in your own closet. 
Don’t ruin great clothes with cheap hangers.
One size doesn’t fit all when it comes to your clothes, and the same is true when it comes to your hangers.
This article provides detail guidance on the new standards for sizing the perfect wooden garment hanger.

“Alan Katzman of Alan Couture, a bespoke clothier in Manhattan whose suits range from $5,000 to $30,000… calls quality hangers a must. Unlike the dreaded wire versions, hangers with wide shoulders and a broader overall design prolong a garment’s life by preventing sagging or stretching.”
No Wire Hangers!
Nov 16, 2008, Wall Street Journal

Ordinary hangers just hang your clothes. They do nothing more. Examples are free wooden hangers, wire and cardboard hangers from dry cleaners, and plastic hangers, and they can be found in many ordinary closets.
Properly made wooden hangers, on the other hand, are deliberately crafted from premium woods to protect and extend the life of your clothing.
They provide opulent shoulder support, are correctly sized, and do not damage your clothes.
Over the life of your wardrobe, they can save you thousands of dollars in ruined garments (think about the number of times you’ve thrown away a shirt because of shoulder dimples or a suit because it became limp).
Let’s Talk Hanger Styles
The style of a hanger is the first thing to consider when selecting your hanger. Different hangers are designed for different purposes.
I make seven different styles designed just for men, plus another nine totally different styles for women. Men and women have dramatically different wardrobes, and the same is true for their hangers. A premium wooden hanger is, by design, gender specific.
The following is a list and brief description of different styles of men’s hangers and their use:

• Suit Hangers – a proper suit hanger is used to hang matching jacket and trouser sets. The hanger should offer opulent support to protect the delicate, tailored shoulder construction and drape. They should be fully contoured and have a large shoulder flare to optimize shoulder support. The trouser bar should be flocked or felted in order to prevent the creasing that ordinary locking bars can cause. The width is also important; in order to offer optimal support, the suit hanger should extend up to but not beyond the point where the shoulder meets the sleeve. This is especially important for gentlemen with broad shoulders, as the weight of a large jacket distributed on a skinny hanger will almost immediately destroy its drape.

• Jacket Hangers – A proper jacket hanger should contain all of the same characteristics of a suit hanger (detailed above) but without the trouser bar. Jacket hangers are used for sports coats that would not have matching trousers and guest coat closets.

• Trouser Hangers – Trouser hangers are an essential part of any well-appointed closet and are only used for hanging trousers. Because of their specific application, they save room relative to using old suit hangers. The most important criteria for a wooden trouser hanger is whether it creases trousers. Locking bars, although very common, actually damage the fabric of most trousers over time and lead to creasing across the thigh, which can result in embarrassing creases across the trousers when pulled out of the closet. Trouser hangers are not contoured.

• Locking Bars – A wooden bar locks the trousers between a metal wire. This mechanism is BAD, as they cause creasing across trousers and can damage premium wools (like Super 100′s). This is the most common and inexpensive type of trouser bar and can be found on most department store hangers.

• Felted Trouser Bar – The trouser bar is flocked or felted with a material whose texture “grips” trousers. Trousers drape over the bar and no pressure is applied (as with a locking bar), thereby preventing creasing. This is the BEST style and can only be found on premium wooden suit hangers.

• Clamping Trouser Bar – two planks of wood with felted interiors clamp trousers at their cuff and hang them vertically upside. This style is popular but demands a lot of vertical closet space. The weight of the trousers “pull” wrinkles out over time as the trousers hang. Can be found on premium wooden suit hangers, although they increase their cost significantly.

• Clip Hangers – use two independent clips to secure the trouser. These are generally discouraged for finer wool, cotton, or linen trousers because the force of the clip can damage the fabric. However, they are totally acceptable for hanging denim jeans or shorts.

• Shirt Hangers – a man’s shirt hanger should extend all the way to the edge of the shoulder. If a shirt hanger is too narrow (width), puckering or dimpling occurs. It should also be thick enough to offer support, but not so thick that closet space is unnecessarily consumed. Premium wooden shirt hangers are especially important for loosely-knit fabrics, such as cotton and cashmere shirts. Shirt hangers are not contoured.

• Sweater Hanger – Most people fold their sweaters — not because folding is necessarily better, but because most ordinary hangers are very quick to destroy sweaters. This is why The Hanger Project developed a sweater specifically sweaters and soft knits. The moderate shoulder flare, which is flocked to help grip the garment, controls the sweater and prevents it from sliding down the hanger. This prevents both stretching and shoulder puckering.

Hanger Width – The Most Important Criteria
The width of a hanger is the most overlooked but critical characteristic of a proper hanger.
One size doesn’t fit all when it comes to your clothing, and the same should be true when it comes to your hangers. Considering that your garments will spend more time in your closet over the lifetime than on your shoulders, it is easy to understand why this characteristic is so important.
The sizing principle is the same for both suits and shirts: the hanger should extend all the way to–but not beyond–the point where the shoulder meets the sleeve. The most accurate method of sizing your hanger is to measure directly across the back (the point-to-point measurement).

My company makes suit hangers in four widths: 15.5″, 17.0″, 18.5″, and 20.0″. A 20.0″ suit hanger is an exceptionally large suit hanger perfect for professional athletes and other gentlemen with particularly broad shoulders, while the smaller hanger is aimed for the smaller man who is tired of over sized hangers blowing out the shoulders on his expensive suit jackets.
As for wooden shirt hangers, you’ll often find them in lengths of 17.0″, 19.0″, and 21.0″.  Choose the size that is closest to the width of your shirt. It is okay for your shirt hanger to extend slightly beyond the shoulder. With the right luxury shirt hanger, you will be able to almost eliminate the annoying shirt puckering that often plagues closets.
Hanger Girth
The GIRTH of a hanger, or it’s thickness, is particularly important at its ends. I make a  suit hanger with a 2.5″ Shoulder Flares distributes the weight of a jacket over a surface area 5x larger than average. This, in turn, ensures that the drape of the jacket is protected.

I hope you found this article useful – if you have any wisdom or stories to share I’d love to hear from you in the comments below.
More info:
http://mansuits123.blogspot.com/2013/05/why-are-flannel- trousers-so-hard-to-buy.html